Photo Gallery of Pridnestrovie / Transnistria - an unrecognized country, part of a former Soviet Republic of Moldavia. - Off The Map - Transnistria

OFF THE MAP - Transnistria

To preserve their Russian language and identity, the inhabitants of the narrow region sandwiched between the Dniester River and the Ukraine declared in 1990 their independence. Two years later, they had to defend with weapons what they now consider their country. From the inside, Transnistria has all the characteristics of a state: government, currency, passport, borders and armed forces. However for the outside world they do not exist as the International Community do not recognize their independence.

How do you live in a place that does not exist on any map of the world? What is really the price of being a pariah within the International Community? These questions served as a starting point for my project.

The unilateral separation from Moldova, created a kind of bubble, where non-recognition and legal limbo allow opaque and doubtful business, opening the way to poverty and inequality. Today the economic and political life of the region is practically governed by the oligarchs. The lack of recognition marks everyday life down to the smallest details and if until now Transnistria has been able to maintain itself it is thanks to the Russian economic support.

Transnistrians in general consider themselves as patriots and claim to love their country. However, the lack of work, isolation and the difficult economic situation push many to emigrate. Little by little the region is depopulating, leaving behind children and grandparents. For those who stay, the identity problem begins to take a back seat. In the words of some of the interviewees: “Identity does not fill your stomach”.

Everyday life in photos - enter

Transnistria - Children prepare for a performance to commemorate the...

Children prepare for a performance to commemorate the victory of the USSR in World War II, Tiraspol.

Since Transnistria declared the independence, the government has been soughing to create a patriotic discourse based largely on the glorification of the Soviet past and the victory of the USSR in World War II.

Transnistria - Children prepare for a performance to commemorate the...

Children prepare for a performance to commemorate the victory of the USSR in World War II, Tiraspol.

Since Transnistria declared the independence, the government has been soughing to create a patriotic discourse based largely on the glorification of the Soviet past and the victory of the USSR in World War II.

Transnistria - Local restaurant in Bendery. For the majority of...

Local restaurant in Bendery.

For the majority of inhabitants, the Soviet heritage is simply part of its history, while others transform it into a merchandising product with a powerful tourist attraction.

Transnistria - Ievdonija Filinovja (95 years old), veteran of the Battle...

Ievdonija Filinovja (95 years old), veteran of the Battle of Stalingrad in World War II at her home, Tiraspol.

The memory of the Second World War is still very much alive in the region, glorifying the victory of the USSR over fascism. War veterans receive supplements to pensions and are one of the few groups that enjoy complete free social coverage. In general their pensions are paid by Russian government (under condition they ask for Russian nationality).

Transnistria - An orphanage for children in a village mostly inhabited...

An orphanage for children in a village mostly inhabited by Moldovans, Cioburciu.

The Dniester River, the de facto border between Moldova and Transnistria, Tiraspol.

Before the separation the region was the most prosperous part of the Soviet Republic of Moldova, with a standard of living twice as high as in Bessarabia - the Romanian part of Moldova. The lack of recognition plunged the region into isolation by placing it in a legal limbo that opened the way to poverty and the development of inequalities.

Children play near the Dniester River, Tiraspol.

In 1990, to preserve its Russian language and culture, Transnistria separated unilaterally from Moldova, without ever obtaining recognition from the International Community. Since then the socio-economic situation of the region has been deteriorating, the de facto country is being emptied of its inhabitants leaving behind children and grandparents.

Albina Georgievna (71 years old, Russian origins) in her house in Grigoriopol. 60% of Transnistrians are Russian speakers.

According to the official census from 2016, 470,600 people live in Transnistria, of which 60% are Russian speakers (Russians and Ukrainians), 32% are Moldovans and 8% are from other ethnic backgrounds (Bulgarians, Gagauzos, Jews, Germans and Poles) .

Sasza (25 years old) at her home with her three passports: Transnistrian, Russian and Moldovan, from left to right; at her home in Bendery. The Transnistrian passport is not recognized by the International Community. In order to travel, people need to get another nationality.

A Russian nationalist waves the Russian flag on the occasion of Tiraspol’s Day. The majority of the population shows a strong support for Russia and Putin.

The majority of the population shows their strong support for Russia and Putin. According to official government data, in the 2006 referendum, 97% of the population voted for independence and "free union" with Russia.

Vadim Krasnoselsky, president of Transnistria, during a celebration on the occasion of the 610th anniversary of Bendery.

Krasnoselsky won the presidential elections in 2016, supported by the oligarchs and the powerful private business conglomerate "Sheriff" that controls virtually the entire economic life of the country.

Pensioners during a free meal organized on the occasion of Tiraspol’s Day. Due to the strong emigration, the population of Transnistria is declining and aging, Tiraspol.

The "Green market" in Tiraspol, where local producers and farmers can sell their products. The land and infrastructure belongs to conglomerate "Sheriff".

"When there was separation, we thought we were going to build a little Switzerland here, we had all potential for that, and well ..." Sheriff "appeared and that's all. Here it is not the president who governs, but "Sheriff" and his team. " Svetlana (name changed), 77, former professor of biochemistry at the University of Tiraspol.

Odema, a sewing factory, operates as subcontractor for European brands. The goods produced in Transnistria can only be exported as Moldovan products, Tiraspol.

Boarding school for children, Parkany.

The main problem that Transnistria faces is the difficult economic situation and the lack of work. In 2015, around 15% of the active population emigrated permanently, the majority choosing Russia as their destination. In many cases the parents leave the children to their relatives or in the orphanages.

Alexandra Telpis (29 years old) at her parents' house in Bendery. Alexandra works in a NGO based in Transnistria but registered in Moldova, the only way to obtain European funds.

In 2016 the NGO supported a local photographer wanting to expose her work about homosexual people living in Transnistria. The exhibition had to be canceled due to pressures from the KGB services on the photographer and her family.

Stas Kovtun with his father, Andriev Kovtun, in the family house in Grigoriopol. Stas' parents occupy top regional positions in the currently ruling party "Obnovlenie". They consider themselves Transnistrians and Russians and strongly support Putin.

Ludmila Michailova’s house in Tiraspol.

Bogdan (18 years old), a local musician at his home, plans, like many other young people, to emigrate to Russia or Europe, Tiraspol.

Among young people, emigration is often the most frequent future project. Much migrates for economic reasons but some also because of the lack of opportunities at the level of personal and cultural development. In Transnistria there are no cultural centers or independent spaces that would allow young people to express and develop their creativity.

Ludmila Michailova’s house in Tiraspol.

Ludmila Michailowa (70 years old) at her home, Tiraspol.

Many pensioners (like Ludmila) help their children and grandchildren to support themselves. Many ask for Russian nationality to access a pension that can be 3 times higher than the pension paid by the Transnistria government.

Tiraspol, considered the capital of Transnistria.

The separation was accompanied by the appearance of the oligarchs who, taking advantage of the international legal limbo and the confinement in which the region found itself, developed opaque and concentrated in the hands of one private conglomerate, businesses. Consequently, many economic inequalities appeared in society.

Local artists wait on the street before their performance in the commemoration of Tiraspol’s Day.

Among young people, emigration is often the most frequent future project. Much migrates for economic reasons but some also because of the lack of opportunities at the level of personal and cultural development. In Transnistria there are no cultural centers or independent spaces that would allow young people to express and develop their creativity.

The match between FC "Sheriff" Tiraspol and FC Milsami Orhei at the “Sheriff’s” sport complex.

"Sheriff" is a private conglomerate formed in 1993 by two former members of secret services of the Soviet Republic of Moldova: Victor Gushan and Ilya Kazmaly. "Sheriff" controls practically the entire economic life of the country owning supermarkets, refineries, alcohol industry, telephony and internet, pharmacies and clinical analysis centers, Tiraspol.

Tiraspol, considered the capital of Transnistria.

Pro Putin electoral poster, Grigoriopol.

The Republican Party Obnovlenie, the current ruling party in Transnistria, strongly supports Putin and his party "United Russia". Putin's portraits and the Russian flags can be found in many institutions and official offices; The Russian flag was also declared as a national symbol at the same level as the flag of Transnistria.

Museum of History in Bendery.

Post-Soviet nostalgia is strong especially among the older population of Transnistria. It is not uncommon to hear comments like: "I cried when Stalin died" or "Perestroika ruined our lives."

Siergei, veteran of the World War II at his home, Tiraspol.

Students from the cadet school of the Ministry of Interior of Transnistria watch a performance to commemorate the victory of the USSR in World War II, Tiraspol.

Moldovan orphanage in the Cioburciu village, mostly Moldovan, but under the jurisdiction of Transnistria, where it is mandatory to use the Moldovan language written with the Cyrillic alphabet.

“My family was born here, my grandmother is buried here. Part of my family after the separation left, part stayed here. Now, those who live in Chisinau (Moldova), when they want to come to their family home, to see us, to visit my grandmother's grave, they have to apply for a visa at the border. This is not normal. ”- Verónica, 48, a teacher at the Moldovan Lyceum in Tiraspol.

The Parliament of Transnistria, Tiraspol.

The current government cultivates and glorifies the Soviet past, but in real life it chooses an economy oriented towards the free market and based on private property. As for the inhabitants, while for some the Soviet heritage is simply part of its history, others transform it into merchandise with a powerful tourist attraction.

Off The Map - Transnistria

Off the map is a multimedia documentary project about Transnistria.

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